Batgung

Here's a suggestion for a fun evening out that will both delight your senses, and distill for you much of the essence of Hong Kong. I wish I could say I'd thought this up myself, but I've had it suggested to me by at least a couple of other, more original, people.

You begin at dusk on Victoria Peak. Wallow in the view as the last golden light of day mellows Hong Kong's skyline. And as darkness falls and the city's lights come on, the impossibly spectacular view gets even better.

Once you've absorbed enough visual stimulation, take the Peak Tram back down to Central if you like, or perhaps opt for a bus, minibus or taxi instead, since if you've taken the tram up to the Peak already, the trip down's a bit anticlimactic. In either case, get over to the Star Ferry pier, and take this classic vessel over to Tsim Sha Tsui.

Walk up the right-hand side of Nathan Road until you have been accosted by at least three gentlemen touting copy watches, custom tailoring or controlled substances. This means you've reached Chungking Mansions, the seediest seed-bed of Hong Kong's seedy side. For the uninitiated, Chungking Mansions comprise a couple of older buildings that for decades have been given over to 'guest houses' of dubious reputation, along with incredibly cheap and often very good subcontinental eateries. It's the latter we're interested in here.

I won't even try to explain how to find anything in Chungking Mansions. Just go there, find a likely-looking curry-slinger, and enjoy.

Once you've managed to rinse away the worst of the curry splatters besmirching your outfit (a perpetual concern for Mr Tall) walk over to the Peninsula Hotel, find the ultra-funky lift that goes up to Felix bar, and head up for a drink or three. Again, I won't try too hard to describe Felix, since it's best experienced with minimal preconceptions. I will make just two recommendations: drink enough so that you'll need to use the toilet, and don't go there for dinner. Those who are looking for actual tasty food are usually disappointed; those who go just for drinks love it and return regularly.

Finally, when your post-curry thirsts have been slaked (or when those HK$70 martinis have put a big enough hit on your pocketbook) head back down to street level, walk back to the Tsim Sha Tsui harborfront promenade, and drink in one last dose of that skyline view.

Alternatives: if you try to make an assault on Chungking Mansions and are repulsed, whether by a mass of garbage that's achieved sentience, or by a general attack of the willies, you can find excellent south Asian food at either the Afghan Canteen or Branto's, both of which are on Lock Road just up from the junction with Peking Road. Branto's, which serves pure south Indian vegetarian, is particularly good. See also our curry guide for more choices.

Also, if you think Felix is likely to overwhelm your coolness capacitators (we can't all be Batgung, I acknowledge), then I'd suggest having your drink in the bar/coffee shop at the Intercontinental Hotel, which offers you acres of plate glass looking straight out on the harbor, and a more sedate atmosphere.

If you're on a tight budget, the vaunted bottled and canned beverage service provided by the 7-11 just past Star Ferry is more than adequate, and a seat on the upper deck of the promenade. This may in fact be the best option of all!