Life in Hong Kong's ARP tunnels

If you lived in Hong Kong in the 1940s or 1950s, or you know someone that did, we’re keen to hear of any stories about Hong Kong’s Air Raid Precaution (ARP) tunnels. The government reports tell us the location, size, geology, etc, but there is very little written about what conditions were like for the people that had to use the tunnels in wartime.

Here are the few references to the tunnels that I’ve found:

Construction

The ARP tunnels were built in a hurry in 1940 and 1941. Indeed the records show that several tunnels were incomplete at the time of the invasion. The hasty decision-making also opened the door to corruption, as detailed in Nigel Cameron’s book ‘An Illustrated History of Hong Kong’:
The decision after all to provide air-raid shelters for everyone meant that now the work had to be one at break-neck speed, and a virtually new organization created almost instantly. Huge sums were involved and the urgency led to graft, especially in the architectural branch of the ARP department. A commission of enquiry under a Puisne Judge was set up in August 1941 as the result of the discovery that the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation had managed to complete the blacking out of its headquarters in Queen’s Road for the total sum of $87 and not the $500 which had been allocated. The Bank, suspecting some irregularity, claimed its $500, duly received it, and reported to the government. The ARP Department architect was asked to give evidence. When he failed to attend, it was discovered that he had shot himself. Another British official in charge of the many air-raid tunnels being dug into the hillsides was admitted to hospital suffering from severe poisoning.

The commission met in the period between 14 August and 7 November 1941, attracting a blaze of media attention. But its findings were never published. The Judge presiding, P.E.F. Cressal, carried the draft report into internment in Stanley camp a month later, where he died in 1944. The draft vanished: after the war the enquiry was quietly dropped.
Q: How did the ARP department decide where the tunnels would be built?

Invasion

Paragraph 44 of General Maltby’s dispatch reads:
44. Civil Population – The civil police found their hands more than full in maintaining order in the city but had the situation generally under control except in the A.R.P. tunnels, where in certain cases armed gangs of robbers were operating.
Q: Were the tunnels in Kowloon (eg those under Kowloon Park) ever opened to the public? It seems that most of the shelling and bombing was aimed at Hong Kong island.
Q: Were the tunnels open permanently from the beginning of war with Japan to the surrender on Christmas day, or were they only opened at certain times?
Q: Did the civilians prefer to shelter in the tunnels, or stay in their houses?
Q: What were conditions like in terms of space, ventilation, lighting, etc?
Q: How long would people stay in the tunnels for?

An article about the tunnels by Guy Searls in the 6th April 1992 edition of 'The Standard' newspaper gives a few answers:
In the evenings, whole families crowded into the tunnels to spend the night together in safety, even if not in great comfort. There are those who recall the stench in the tunnels. There were no "facilities" there, no running water or toilets. But it could have been worse. Each tunnel did at least have air circulation.

And one recollection of old timers who used the tunnels strengthen my faith that Hong Kong hawkers are among the bravest and most enterprising business people in the world. While the ordinary residents were running into the tunnels, the hawkers lined up outside to sell them food and provisions to last through the raid - or through the night - whichever was longer.
Occupation

At least one of the tunnel networks shows evidence that the Japanese strengthened the tunnels during their occupation of Hong Kong. There were repeated Allied air-raids on Hong Kong during this time, so it is not surprising the Japanese forces would find the ARP tunnels useful.

Q: Were they also open for civilian use during those raids?

Post-War

Many of the tunnels had timber supports, and it was noted in the late 1940s that much of that wood had been looted immediately after the war.

Q: Did the wood really last that long, or was it removed during the occupation? Firewood was very difficult to find at that time, so wooden beams from the tunnels would have been very valuable.

Q: I also wonder if the tunnels were used as living quarters at all during the occupation or post-war? Given the shortage of accomodation at that time, the tunnels would have been an attractive place to shelter.



If you have any other information about these tunnels, we’d love to hear from you. Please leave a comment below, or send an email to mrb @ batgung . com (without the spaces).

Comments

Picture of Air Raid shelter in 1941

The Imperial War Museum Collections Online website has the following picture dated December 1941, and with the caption: "Air raid wardens take up position at the entrances to public shelters in Hong Kong, during an exercise in the last days before the Japanese invasion."

Can anyone identify where this photo was taken?

Regards, MrB

Possible location of the air raid shelter entrance as per photo

The photograph showed that it was located at a dense populated area in one of the districts of Hong Kong. The district was full of business (shops & advertisements at the background) & residences (laundries hanging on the 2nd & 3rd level of the background building & the the huge crowd gathered as shown). The closest (highly probable) air-raid shelter in such environments would be located at the Queen’s Road East, also at close proximity of the Admiralty.

I don't think the photo was

I don't think the photo was taken on Queen's Rd East, as it doesn't look like the area surrounding either of the two sets of tunnels along that road.

Recently I've begun to suspect that the picture was not taken near an Air-raid tunnel at all. Instead it looks more likely to be a picture of one of the 'Pen Shelters' that were also built. They were made from hollow concrete blocks, and built to be 'blast and bomb-splinter proof from 500-pound bombs falling 50 feet away'.

At the time they were built, they were reported to be suitable for conversion into market stalls and shelters for street-sleepers. I'm sure they'd have survived the war, but I wonder if there are signs of any now?

MrB

I am deeply regret that I am

I am deeply regret that I am unable to assist you further as the person who provided the information in identifying the photo had just passed away (more than 90 years of age).

The greatest constraint was that this person had suffered from macular degeneration for many years and was almost blinded completely. In addition, this person was not in good health; I had extreme difficulties to starting a conversation.

When this person was in the mood of conversations, I had to find the right moment to describe the scene of the photo to the best I could.

After numerous conversations, that was all the useful information that I could collect from the fading memories of this person.

Sorry to hear your sad news.

Sorry to hear your sad news. Thank you for your efforts to identify the photo.

Regards, MrB

the photo

Maybe it is near the old government supplies buildings in North Point?

North Point?

I don't know that area well - please could you let me know which street that is on? I'm also interested to hear what makes you think it could be a match for the photo.

Thanks for writing, MrB

North Point?

Hi there,

If it's around the old Government supply depot, it would be Oil street/Electric Road. Oil street is a very short street, going from King's Road right opposite the Fortress Hill MTR station up to the water front. The defunct depot bildings are still there, deserted. You should be able to see the walled-up site. I think there might be some old buildings there too, especially those low rise ones.

However I doubt it as right next to the depot, it used to be a Power Plant, where City Garden is located now. Back in the WWII days it was definitely a power plant and I have a faint recollection from reading History Books that the Power Plant was bombed by Japanese first thing when they invaded the Island.

Oh BTW, at Oil Street there used to be a public mortuary about a decade ago. Together with the Government Depot they had been converted to be a short term exhibition site for art groups some years back. I have lost track of this project though.

Best Regards,
T

Life in the tunnels during the invasion

The Saturday 13th December 1941 issue of the South China Morning Post has two articles referring to life in the shelters. The first begins:

The Chinese population has soon come to appreciate the protection afforded by the network of air raid shelters in the Colony and hundreds have made these their temporary homes, many remaining in them even during the daytime.

Shelters in all parts of the Colony are well patronized these nights, and will be more so following the warning by the military Authorities that intermittent shelling of the island was to be expected in future by Japanese artillery on the Mainland.

Many Chinese in the Central districts, especially the mid levels, now move to the Leighton Hill tunnels in Happy Valley and the Arsenal Street tunnels, with mattresses and other bedding, shortly before dusk and return to town in the mornings.
[…]
A reporter toured one tunnel yesterday where several flights of step lead deep into the earth. [Probably the Wyndham St network? It sounds like the entry at Portal 41 near the junction of Glenealy and Wyndham St. Mrb] Hundreds of Chinese men, women, and children were spread out over its enormous length and seemed completely at home. Ventilation was good.

Children were sleeping beside their parents or playing with each other while the many babies in arms slept peacefully. Here and there a family of three or four were eating meals of saltfish and rice while others were overheard chatting about prevailing conditions and expressing confidence in Hongkong’s defences. Nowhere could a sign of undue apprehension be observed.

The second article describes another visit:

An S. C. M. Post reporter who was forced to remain in town owing to the absence of transport spent the greater part of Thursday night outdoors and in various tunnels and shelters. He relates his experiences as follows:
[...]
The tunnels in the city area were filled with people. I went in through the entrance in one street, and emerged after a long walk nearly 400 yards distant. Men, women and children - hundreds of them - were sleeping in the tunnels.

When the shells came whistling overhead, I saw a few scores of others coming along. They had decided they would be safer in the tunnels.

A member of the public telling his experiences says: I took shelter in two air raid tunnels in the course of Wednesday’s raids. On the first occasion, I was caught in a bus which stopped near Arsenal Street and, together with hundreds of others, I made my way to one of the tunnels in the vicinity.

On arrival I found a great many people already there. A.R.P. officials at the entrances shepherded the people into the tunnels with quiet efficiency, and there was not the slightest semblance of panic.

People, young and old, made themselves comfortable on the benches and with the electric lights burning brightly and no crowding , the half hour I spent in the tunnel passed quickly.

Here and there I came across Europeans. I saw a European nurse in uniform near one of the entrances, She had passed my bus in a car only a few minutes before and had stopped her car dutifully and had taken shelter when the alarm went.

On the same bench with me was a European male engrossed in a cross-word puzzle. I envied him.

While walking along the labyrinthine passages, I could feel the air currents blowing against my face. The air conditioning is good.

In the course of my wanderings, I ran across the A.R.P. official in charge of the tunnels in this section. He happened to be a friend of mine and told me that he had had no trouble at all with the shelterers, who had obeyed all the instructions given them.

Later in the day, I had occasion to visit one of the tunnels behind Leighton Hill Road. Here the conditions did not appear to be so good. Some of the people taking refuge here were crowding the entrances and whether because of this or not, the air was not so clean.

While I was there, people were coming in with camp beds, mattresses and bedding, apparently having decided to spend the night there.

Further along, however, behind Wongneichung Road, the tunnels appeared to be in better shape again. There was not the same tendency here to crowd the entrances and the ventilation was good.

In that same issue of the newspaper, they printed the official communiqué announcing that "We have successfully evacuated our troops, supplies, and essential services from Kowloon". Apart from the Devil’s Peak peninsula, this meant all the shoreline facing Hong Kong island was now available to the Japanese forces and their artillery. Bombardment from land and air would increase significantly over the following days, making the shelters all the more valuable.

This issue of the SCMP is available on microfiche in Central Library. Unfortunately this is the last entry on the microfiche. Does anyone know whether the issues for 14-25th December are available, either online or in print?

MrB

Photo of tunnels taken after surrender

This photo comes from the Jan 14 1942 edition of the Hong Kong News, the English language newspaper put out by the Japanese during their occupation of Hong Kong.

Captured troops march past ARP tunnels

As often noted, history is written by the victors. The caption for the picture read:

When the British surrendered, the defeated troops were interned according to international law. Internment camps have been set up in various parts of Hongkong and Kowloon, and all except the wounded were sent there. Amongst the former garrison of Hongkong were many hundreds of Indian soldiers, who were severed from their homes and sent here to take up arms by the British. They were also interned, but all of them show gratitude for the coming of the liberating Japanese forces. A group is shown [in this photo] on their way to the camp.

Unfortunately the picture here is a scan of a print of a microfilm copy of the newspaper - ie not very good quality. If anyone has a better version, I'd love to get a copy.

Can anyone confirm where the photo was taken? I'm guessing they are walking past the portals along Queens Road East, just before the road joins Queensway near Pacific Place.

MrB

Reader moddsey confirms the location

Reader moddsey writes:

The Ruins of War by Wordie and Ko on Pg 151 does confirm the posted photo are portals on Queens Rd E near to the main entrance of the former Victoria Barracks.

Thank you, MrB

View of the tunnel portals near Queensway today

Here's a current photo of roughly the same area:

Arsenal Street tunnels today

Life in the tunnels

I arrived in London this morning, and had some free time this afternoon to visit the Imperial War Museum (IWM). I wanted to read some of the wartime diaries they have in their archives, and found a couple that referred to life in the tunnels.

In Mrs M W Redwood's diary, her description of of the days from 7 - 25 Dec 1941 focuses on her time as a volunteer nurse in the temporary hospital in the Jockey Club. But in the Monday 7th December 1941 entry she also notes that

"at 7am a message came from A.R.P. headquarters, requesting that my daughter, who was attached to the department, should report as soon as possible for duty."

Fortunately, keeping a diary seems to have been a family habit, as the IWM lso has a copy of Miss B C Redwood's diary. She gives several mentions of her A.R.P. work:

10 Dec: Went in Battery Path Tunnel in alarm when on way to town. It was more orderly than I had expected (despite large numbers of interested rather than frightened Chinese).

11 Dec: Our office may be moving to C.S.O.tunnel.

12 Dec: Mabel has joined the V.A.D.s and sleeps down below (the hospital) in air raid shelter.

13 Dec: Mr Puckle gave me a lift to the C.S.O. tunnel. Peggy Wilson had already arrived. Our job was to keep a log of the events (mostly messages per telephone call) and also to make out identification cards for the ARP people. It was boiling hot in the tunnel, and I was glad to short-sleeved jumper.

14 Dec: Then I went up to the Tunnel. The Central Police Station was bombed badly in the afternoon. Felt the concussions even in the tunnel.

[MrB: She writes that memories of the next few days were very mixed up, but
that at the start of each day she...] "jammed on tin hat and slung respirator, and - provided there were no raids on - scrammed up Battery Path to Tunnel"

18 Dec: There were bombs in the vicinity of the C.S. Office. The concussion made our hair go up on end and wave backwards and forwards. The C.S.O. garages were burnt out and/or bombed, also the group of cars that were outside the C.S.O. A lot of Indian policemen were injured and carried into the tunnel.

5 Jan: We A.R.P. people seemed to be the first group to be interned in these little hotels on the instructions of the Japs. [MrB: She was put in the Tai Koon Hotel.]

Both ladies' diaries continue, with the bulk of the content describing their time during internment in the Stanley camp.

+ + +

The IWM records refer to several other ladies' wartime diaries:
- Mrs D Ingram. (No reference to ARP matters)
- Mrs H G Wittenbach (IWM librarian could not find the document)

MrB

Tunnel construction and Mimi Lau

George Wright-Nooth's book 'Prisoner of the Turnip Heads' briefly mentions their construction:

[in 1939-41] other signs [of concern about the possibility of war in Hong Kong - MrB] were the hurried building of pill-box and machine gun emplacements all around the colony. It was again the Maginot Line principle. Anyhow there were far too many to be fully manned by the existing troops. You did not require any military training to realize that many were badly positioned. Large-scale corruption was involved both by government officials and military personnel. When it came to the fighting many of these fortifications proved to be as effective as papier mache against bullets and bombs.

Then there was the frantic rush to build air raid tunnels and other shelters which was followed by the inevitable corruption. The organization responsible for this was the hastily formed Air raid Precaution Department (A.R.P.). The main protagonist in the enquiry which followed was a retired RAF officer, Wing-Commander Steele-Perkins, who was the Head of the Department. "Mimi" Lau, a Chinese Woman, was one of many witnesses. She was anxious to move in the Chinese and European upper social circles and was to become famous locally because of the concrete blocks which were used to build the shelters. These were square with a large hole in the centre and were referred to, and still are, as "Mimi Laus"!

Redwood / Steele-Perkins

The local Hong Kong War Diary website gives a link between the two previous posts, as it lists 'Redwood, Barbara C. Stenographer' among the ARP staff, and notes she was 'Secretary to Steele-Perkins'.

It has a section describing the ARP department:

The original director of Air Raid Precautions was Wing Commander A.H.S. Steele-Perkins, who left HK before the outbreak of warto become DARP India. Puckle then took over, with Bevan as his deputy.

The ARP headquarters and training school were opened in May 1940 in Morrison Hill Road (the post-war Harcourt Clinic). By mid-1941 there were something over 4,000 wardens in total, from a planned establishment of 9,600 (which would have allowed an ARP post for every 100 houses).

It also gives a list of ARP department's staff members.

Newspaper clippings re ARP

Thanks to reader IDJ for sending in these clippings from the SCMP in 1940 & 1941 that mention the ARP tunnels:

re: Picture of Air Raid shelter in 1941

Received by email:

I, too, have been interested in the IWM photo and trying to find its location. I have always held at the back of my mind two possible locations (both on HK Island):
 
A. Hennesy Rd/Canal Rd junction looking E or
 
B. Johnston Rd/Luard Rd junction looking W.
 
The reason being how the houses are faced in relation to the main road/shelters and the curvature of the road and houses in the distance.

Here's a map showing the two locations:

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